Although tsunamis are the best known waves, wind and land make up some of the highest and most dangerous waves off the world’s coasts.
In February 2020, Brazilian Maya Gabeira surfed a 22 meter high wave off the coast of Nazaré, Portugal, north of Lisbon. It was the biggest wave ever recorded of the season that year, and the first time a woman had ridden the biggest wave of the year.
Who has never had the experience of being hit by a wave on the beach as a child? The waves are fascinating and at the same time inspire great respect, as we walk hand in hand with one of the most powerful forces on the planet.
The normal cause of waves is the wind, which carries water off the surface, as when we blow on a cup of coffee to cool it down. This disturbance creates the crest of a wave, which moves in the direction of the wind.
Waves are not limited to being on the surface of the ocean. Its energy extends well below the surface, sometimes up to 150 meters deep. When waves hit shallow water close to shore, they begin to “feel” the ocean floor. Water near the bottom shrinks and moves more slowly than on the surface, which starts to “build up”. So the waves get closer together and get taller.
The most dangerous waves are those caused by storms and hurricanes. Strong winds generate a series of long, tall waves that form in the deeper waters and intensify as they get closer to land, reaching up to ten meters in height. Although not very intuitive, water does not move in the form of waves. What is really moving is wave energy, which, if unobstructed, can travel across an ocean basin.
Much less frequent, but much more dangerous, are waves caused by underwater disturbances that move large amounts of water rapidly, such as earthquakes, landslides or volcanic eruptions. These huge waves are tsunamis.
In 1958, an earthquake followed by a landslide in Lituya Bay, Alaska, generated a wave 30 meters high, the largest tsunami ever documented. When the wave hit the shore, it broke trees that were 600 meters from shore. Five deaths were recorded, but the material damage was minimal because there were few towns or villages nearby.
The gravitational pull of the Sun and Moon on Earth also causes waves, much larger and slower, which we know as tides. Then there are the “rebel waves” that until 1995 were considered a myth. That year, a Norwegian platform detected one of these 25-metre waves. The simplest explanation for these monsters is that two or more waves meet and line up in such a way that their crests merge into a much larger one.
Millions of surfers around the world looking for an ever greater challenge, where the seabed has a special topography that gives rise to the highest waves. These are some of the places in the world with the best waves.
Banzai Pipeline
Banzai Pipeline, located on the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii, is a popular surf spot for locals and adventure-seeking travelers. In winter, huge waves from the Pacific crash into a sharp, shallow reef, creating some of the tallest (and deadliest) waves in the world.
Praia do Norte, Portugal
Photograph: Luis Ascent
Praia do Norte in Nazaré, Portugal, is constantly visited by waves the size of skyscrapers. Here Garrett McNamara broke the world record for the longest ever surfed: 23 meters tall.
Puerto Escondido, Mexico
Photograph: Bryce Bradford
Most of the time, Playa Zicatela in Puerto Escondido is just a typical beach spot with sunbeds and beach bars. However, when the waves arrive, this place becomes the “Mexican Oil Pipeline”, with huge waves that form the long-awaited barrels where surfers enter the surf.
Shipstern Bluff, Australia
Tasmania is one of the few corners of the world that is still very wild, especially on this stretch of coast on the south side of the peninsula. Here, the huge waves of the Pacific crash against a submerged granite ledge. The water is icy and there are lots of sharks, so it’s only for the bravest.
Hout Bay, South Africa
Photograph: Charles Fred
Hout Bay’s “Dungeons” are threatening in many ways. Located near Cape Town, huge, icy waves form here, breaking over the rocks near Seal Island, which happens to be a favorite feeding area for great white sharks. The bay is considered one of the most shark-infested water bodies on the planet.
Mavericks, California
In the United States there are also gigantic waves, and it was no wonder that the surf culture that emerged in the 1950s was formed off the coast of California. Mavericks is in Half Moon Bay, and there are usually 20-foot waves, although some waves can go up to 100 feet.
Quo Science Travel Section sponsored by Hyundai