Introducing a new chapter in its storied history, Louis Vuitton left an indelible mark on the men’s shows at Paris Fashion Week by introducing the musician-turned-designer’s debut collection Pharrell Williams.
Appointed in February to fill the massive shoes left behind by the death of Virgil Abloh, Williams revealed his design prowess to the fashion world with a show that exuded confidence.
The impressive location for this tailoring show was the iconic Pont Neuf in Paris. The historic bridge, typically resplendent with time-worn stone, was transformed into a golden runway: a dramatic setting against the backdrop of the glittering Seine and under the starry skies of Paris.
Tuesday night’s event drew a constellation of stars in its own right. The stellar audience spanned music, sports and entertainment icons. Guests lining the golden pavers included music royalty Beyoncé and Jay-Z, NBA superstar LeBron James, new brand ambassador Zendaya and global pop phenomenon Rihanna.
Williams’ first show turned out to be an ambitious endeavor, weaving the luxury and sophistication of haute couture with the pulsing energy and broad appeal of pop culture and entertainment. The show was more than a runway presentation; it was an immersive experience that captured the imagination of those lucky enough to witness it first hand.
Here are some highlights of the spring-summer 2024 shows:
Pharrell speaks
As sunlight filled the halls of the Louis Vuitton headquarters, Williams assumed his new role as the fashion house’s menswear designer.
His appointment symbolizes more than a career change. It represents a bold move by the luxury brand to entrust the role to a musical artist and cultural influencer, not a classically trained designer. But Pharrell says he doesn’t feel the pressure to prove himself: he was chosen.
“I didn’t feel any of that because if I was racing for that and people said, ‘No, don’t,’ I might have felt that way. But the difference is that I was elected,” Pharrell told the AP in a joint interview. “So like when you get elected, you just ride the wave.”
The feeling of being selected by the universe, or by Louis Vuitton, carries with him a sense of destiny. But assuming the role of designer is not just about fulfilling his personal destiny. Williams also feels he is carrying on the legacy of the late Abloh, who was the first black artistic director at Louis Vuitton and a personal friend of his. “My appointment is a tribute,” Williams said.
Black culture and the struggles African-Americans have faced are a huge driving force for Pharrell. He reflected on the unique flavor, influence, and widespread appeal of the culture. “I think it’s something in the sauce,” he said. “And people like it when they try it.”
Williams emphasized the hard-won worldwide recognition of this cultural “sauce,” exemplified in the influence of figures such as LeBron James, Jay-Z, Beyoncé, Prince and artist Jean-Michel Basquiat.
“Many people lost their lives and suffered the experiences to get us to these positions,” he said, underscoring the painful history that fuels his desire to honor his community through his work at Louis Vuitton.
Pharrell’s love of life, moment and opportunity permeates his approach to design. “LV is for Louis Vuitton, but it’s also ‘lover,'” he mused. His interpretation of the Louis Vuitton initials signifies his intention to pour love and appreciation into his work, carrying on the legacy of black culture in a space where he has historically been underrepresented.
“It’s not lost on me that I have this opportunity to tell these stories,” he said.
Louis Vuitton show
The pulse of Paris lit up when Williams unveiled a debut that fused streetwear aesthetics with the traditional lineage of the French maison. The fashion show epitomized high-voltage energy, reverberating through the audience and culminating in a standing ovation for Williams.
The world-renowned musician, known for his genre-blurring creativity, masterfully orchestrated the event. The show reflected the high energy of a music video, perhaps a testament to the meteoric reach of the brand’s parent company, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
Channeling the gender-fluid appeal, Williams showed off a comprehensive collection that spans everything from checkerboard-print denim to a sophisticated cream evening jacket. Punctuated by photographic prints of the Pont Neuf and a uniquely designed coat with a shaved monogram motif, the line also underlined her taste for a distinctive aesthetic.
Playing with LV codes, Williams’ collaboration with American pixel artist ET for a digital motif and African-American artist Henry Taylor’s use of micro-embroideries added an extra dimension to his debut lineup. The collection was packed with pixelated designs across a wide spectrum of pieces, along with the Damier pattern, which adorns the house’s bags, amplified in shades of yellow and black.
The grand finale was a spectacular Jay-Z concert. The electrifying performance brought the crowd to its feet, and his enthusiasm reached a crescendo when Pharrell took the stage to join his longtime collaborator. Whereas Rihanna’s arrival, timed to the show’s climax and revealing a huge naked baby bump, was nothing short of theatrical.
As the show drew to a close, an emotional Williams emerged to take a bow, wiping away tears and pointing skyward in heartfelt thanks. The applause that followed was a thunderous affirmation of the musician’s successful transition into the realm of luxury fashion.
Chanel Resort
After Vuitton’s pulsating evening window display, a more subdued morning scene unfolded at Chanel’s headquarters. Members of the fashion press gathered, copious amounts of coffee and croissants in hand, for a breakfast launch of Chanel’s resort collection. Thus began the glamorous marathon that is Paris Fashion Week.
Themes from the Golden Age of Hollywood characterized designer Virginie Viard’s collection, incorporating touches from the 1920s and 1930s. They were transfused with a clear 1980s influence in sequins and vibrant colors.
Viard presented a long, loose-fitting coat, a staple style one might associate with Art Deco-era film producers. Continuing the Hollywood motif, a lace A-line mini dress took its bleeding color palette from a Los Angeles sunset, a nod to Sunset Boulevard. Additionally, a pleated tiered skirt carried the pink and white striped pattern commonly associated with the Beverly Hills Hotel.
The resort’s collection encore in Paris provided the opportunity for closer inspection of Viard’s Hollywood-inspired designs and the details involved without the drowning of a glitzy spectacle. Amid the rapid progression of fashion, the Chanel collection served as a reminder of the brand’s commitment to historical and pop culture references.
Botter’s Strangers
The design duo behind the Botter label, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, are known for their forward-thinking and bold approach to fashion. The spring-summer collection they presented on Wednesday showcased a series of daring and inventive interpretations of everyday items.
Eco-friendly plastic wicker, normally found in chairs, has been cleverly reconfigured into garments. The unconventional material was particularly poignant in a bright red structured vest that resembled chain mail, demonstrating Botter’s creative and quirky reinterpretation of mundane items.
Designs also included distinctive diamond motifs that gave a slightly historical impression, especially on form-fitting tops and leggings that sometimes recreated the look of a medieval peasant.
Contrasting with the extravagant designs, a delicate lavender knitted waistcoat unfurled like a disintegrating flower, adding a touch of poetic elegance to a pair of baggy charcoal office trousers, a testament to Botter’s versatility.
While his designs tend to be bold and unconventional, they manage to strike a balance between the surreal and the portable, while still retaining their appeal to a forward-thinking audience.
Bluemarble dazzles with color
Designer Anthony Alvarez didn’t shy away from color in his menswear collection for Bluemarble. His vibrant palette was a delicious blend of citrine and dandelion. Unstructured and utilitarian designs combined a streetwear sensibility with a touch of couture edginess. Buttons that were part practical, part design statement, rippled in unexpectedly modern synchronization with the aesthetic rhythm of the collection.
The models’ choice of hues and the satin sheen of the coats lent a sun-kissed charisma to the show, aptly reflecting the “blue marble” (planet Earth) that inspired the brand’s name. The bleached blonde hair and drapery subtly echoed the late ’80s, while the boxy silhouettes seemed like a contemporary nod to the iconic era.
Building on Bluemarble’s reputation for bold colors and cultural fusion, Álvarez balanced the blend of her own diverse heritage in her designs. (He was raised by a French mother and a Filipino-Spanish father.) The collection not only celebrated his globe-trotting vision for the brand, but elevated it with bold colors, strategic nostalgia and street utility.